Leading dermatologists from across the country reveal the most effective skincare ingredients for treating wrinkles, acne, dark spots, and more.
In today’s saturated skincare market, where beauty trends dominate social feeds and product aisles are overflowing, many consumers are left asking a simple question: what really works?
A groundbreaking national study led by Northwestern Medicine offers answers. Published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, the research gathered opinions from 62 board-certified cosmetic dermatologists at 43 academic institutions. These experts evaluated 318 ingredients, ultimately reaching consensus on just 23 that they would recommend for treating common skin issues.
The study utilized a structured Delphi consensus method, which involved multiple rounds of scoring and discussion. To be included on the final list, an ingredient had to be recommended by at least 70% of participants and discouraged by no more than 15%. The result is a rigorously vetted cheat sheet of dermatologist-endorsed skincare solutions.
Key Ingredients That Made the Cut
At the top of the list are retinoids, vitamin A derivatives with decades of dermatological support. These ingredients were endorsed for five out of the seven conditions assessed, including fine lines, acne, dark spots, large pores, and oily skin.
Dermatologists reached near-unanimous agreement on another vital product: mineral sunscreen. With 96.8% consensus for preventing wrinkles and 95.2% for reducing redness, mineral sunscreens emerged as one of the most effective tools for preserving healthy skin.
Chemical sunscreens also made the expert-approved list with 82.3% consensus for anti-aging benefits.
Notably, many trendy ingredients heavily marketed by influencers didn’t make the list. Peptides, growth factors, DNA repair enzymes, and other buzzwords commonly found in luxury products failed to earn expert support due to insufficient scientific evidence.
“This is the first time experts have come together nationally to cut through the overwhelming number of skin care options,” said Alam, who also is a Northwestern Medicine dermatologist and surgeon. “We wanted to help both doctors and everyday users understand which ingredients are backed by the most expert support.”
Alam added that when it comes to skin care, more isn’t always better.
“Using too many products can irritate your skin and make things worse,” he said. “It’s about knowing which ingredients are most effective for your specific concerns and are best for your routine.”
The study addresses a major gap for consumers trying to navigate skin care products, which typically don’t undergo the same rigorous review by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as medications for medical conditions, Alam said.
Reference: “Skincare ingredients recommended by cosmetic dermatologists: A Delphi consensus study” by Gabriella V. Alvarez, Bianca Y. Kang, Alexandra M. Richmond, Elika Hoss, Ronald Sulewski, Kira Minkis, Suzanne S. Rozenberg, Diana Antonovich, Alison Boucher, Eric F. Bernstein, Vince Bertucci, Anne M. Chapas, Joel L. Cohen, M Laurin Council, Jeffrey S. Dover, Roy Geronemus, Katherine M.L. Given, Hayley S. Goldbach, Mitchel P. Goldman, Deirdre Hooper and Murad Alam, 14 April 2025, Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
DOI: 10.1016/j.jaad.2025.04.021
Never miss a breakthrough: Join the SciTechDaily newsletter.
2 Comments
Can they share the products studied? That would be helpful.
Right?!